“We have so much fun when we leave the apartment”, Dana said yesterday.
We were sitting at a local restaurant overlooking the Ala Too Square. It was jammed with families enjoying life a late Friday evening. The girls had ramen soup, sweet and sour chicken and I had mash and grilled fish. All for 10 USD. We had just witnessed the change of guards in front of the massive Soviet Style State National Museum. It was still over 30 degrees Celsius, but pleasant. Since we arrived early Tuesday after a sleepless night on the plane from Ankara, it has been a challenge being outdoors midday. 39 degrees C during midday. So, we have spent most time in our comfy flat, just a stones throw away from the square. Hiding away from the heat and a new world and setting for the girls.
Bishkek is exactly what I expected. It is very similar to Karaganda in neighbouring Kazakhstan where we “lived” for 6 months back in 2014. Or and post-Soviet, Russian and former Soviet countries in Central Asia. There’s even a Lenin Statue left here. And the typical wide streets in the centre, murals, huge state buildings, nice parks like the Panfilov Park, and streets organised in straight patterns. Stores, food and even people are the same. Lowkey, silent, serious looking until you get to know them. Like they are guarding themselves toward the unknown.
It takes a week to adapt into a new environment and feel comfortable. Especially as regards to the girls. They have such weight on their shoulders in a way, with us being here starting a new documentary, where they are the narrators and stars. I will be behind the camera or being part of what they do without narrating or talking to camera. And they need their time to ease into a new culture, new people, two new languages -Kirgiz and Russian- and a new unknown world. The first few days I had to motivate them with ice cream or sweets to get them outside the apartment. They preferred their iPads. But it all loosened up yesterday. Since arrival we have made our daily walks in the late evenings going to ATM:s to change money, visiting some interesting sights (with dad, all post-Soviet), buying food, having lunch with Adilet -the co-producer of the film- and just being together. Watching life around us. But not taking part really. Until yesterday. This is also when Alina arrived. She is a gift from above, a fluent English speaker and filmmaker, she turned up in the evening, just back from her own filming project, a documentary about heavy subjects like domestic abuse and Kirghiz men. She will be with us throughout the journey. Walking, living outdoors and filming. And translating. The girls liked her immediately. We asked Adilet to find us a female filmmaker and partner for the journey. The girls are way more comfortable with women, there’s no doubt about that.
I am personally very happy to be back in this world I know very well. It fascinates me. I knew it was perfect for all of us in many ways. Like for example food. Eva, due to her heavy medicine intake, sometimes doesn’t agree with food. But here, she likes this kind of wholesome, down to earth food. Lots of noodles, potatoes, meat and fish. And the people are helpful generous and have very interesting life stories. And most for the modern world things work. Like Wifi. Accessing money. Needed extra camera gear.
Initially the idea was to go to Nepal. But I felt it was way beyond my means, to complicated and over-documented. Kyrgyzstan is perfect. We haven’t seen hardly any tourists. Most Russians. There’s a lot of Russians visiting and living here. The young Russians stick out with their behaviour and clothes. Anyway, this is a very low key project. We have no money at all. For now it is self funded, which always is a huge worry. Added to all my other economical worries, like the Cycling film which is taking such a time it is ruining the economics. But, life is short and you take your chances.
For this reason we will be travelling with Adilet to our starting point and base for our hikes, Karakol, on Tuesday. 5 people with loads of equipment in a very, very small car. But no money can create unknown adventures!
Photos from 2014 in Karaganda https://goo.gl/photos/SK8h1N733RHNA7pK9
