The Kilimanjaro Diary, part 3
“I feel a bit better today” , Richard said when we all gathered in the mess tent for breakfast: “I took a paracetamol and believe me, these pills are magic. No headache, no fever, no problems. They´re so good I want to become a sales agent for them in Canada!”
Even MJ looked better, though he had, like Richard, gone through yet another pretty sleepless night. Moses came in, Suma-Ji too, they looked like they hadn´t slept too much either. But Moses told me the other day, they never really do, due to the responsibility they have for their clients. And I felt I had an obligation to get all of us to Uhuru, the highest peak of Africa. Not just to the crater rim and the two obvious peaks, Gilman´s Point and Stella Point. Our target was Stella Point. Which offered a less steep climb to the rim, but longer. It was also shorter from Stella to Uhuru, 45 minutes only. But today, this morning our plan was to hike to Kosovo Camp which was about 3 km:s away and 150 altitude meters. Once there, we would rest and prepare for the summit bid at midnight. We knew it would be quite cold, because it had been snowing over night and tents were frozen. And I knew we had to get all of us up.
The reason is that I have noticed over the years, the difference in self-confidence, joy and being content is way higher after making it all the way to the top. Or reaching the goal one has set. This is a fact. So when Richard in all the laughter and joy we felt at the breakfast table said:
“I feel much better now, so I will join you to the Kosovo Camp and wait for you there.”
I shouted out yes, wonderful! And I knew we had to do something right away whilst everyone was feeling good. Moses and I looked like each other.
Once we set off for Kosovo Camp, we walked with good speed. Norm who up until this moment had no problems on any level, was still wearing shorts, looking very happy. He had prepared really hard for this trip and that made a difference. Suma Ji was singing, encouraging everyone, Moses and me where chatting about the situation, weather was brilliant, yet again, and when we had hiked about 30 minutes, Moses said:
“What do think if we go for the top right now? Everyone looks strong, weather is great and we are moving quite fast.”
“Yes!!!” I shouted silently: “You are reading my mind! Everyone is still laughing at my dad jokes, so there´s no worries at all. Let us go for it, but don´t tell them. They are so concentrated now, moving well. If anything goes wrong, it is on me, but it will go well.”
We changed route and basically went straight up the steepest way we could. We kept singing and I told Richard:
“Don´t look down now, it is a bit steep here, but we are soon at camp.”
It was quite steep so Suma-Ji hacked out steps for a trail to follow. Somewhere on route the porters disappeared, heading for Kosovo Camp and we had to do some easy rock scrambling and I whispered to Norm that we were heading for a higher base camp, to make it easier for MJ and Richard who were suffering from weakness due to all health problems. I didn´t want to tell Norm all, just because I wanted to see his surprise when we were suddenly at Stella Point.
The most amazing thing, because after 4½ hours neither MJ or Richard hadn´t once asked like, how far is this camp? How can this be only 150 altitude meters or 3 km:s of walking? I am sure they had thought it, but they were that concentrated. One step at a time. And I have to say, since I have myself gone through the “hell” that Richard and MJ were going through with all the symptoms of altitude sickness light, like fever, diarrhea, headaches, no sleep and extreme tiredness – making it to the top is extremely impressive, much more compared to if you make it with no issues at all. Such fighters!
After 5 hours of climbing, we came to a snow fence full of snow. I knew this was the start of the crater rim, so I shouted to the guys:
“We have made it to Kosovo Camp, time to have a rest before tonight’s climb. But now you know what to expect in the form of climbing.”
Suma Ji thought this was hilarious. Moses smiled. He had done it again. Putting people on the top of Africa. With full safety and joy in one. And when we stepped up on the rim so we could see the crater on the other side, I hollered:
“This is Stella Point guys!”
The mix of shock and joy in their eyes was extremely satisfying to see! MJ just didn´t believe me.
“You are shitting me, right?”
Richard said some harsh words in joy at me and just smiled. So did Norm. They just couldn´t believe it. But there was no time to rest, we wanted to get to Uhuru quickly and back down to Kosovo before dark. And we were still not at Stella Peak at 5756 meters. For the first time on the trip I could feel that breathing was harder. It felt pain in my chest like I had been running at full speed for 5 km: s. But no headaches or anything. The previous 2 climbs I remember that going to Uhuru and back was like in a fog. Just hard, no joy. But I remember seeing the great glacier on the left side walking up, and it was still there, as stunningly beautiful. I saw it was hard for Norm for the first time, his hands were shaking and he just pressed on. MJ and Richard were walking on real happiness, joy and lots of adrenaline. Moses lead the team, Suma-Ji was still singing!
At about 16.00 hours we reached Uhuru Peak and could read it was an altitude of 5895 meters. MJ brought out the flags. Weather was perfect. No wind, no cold and we took a bunch of photos as one normally does, exposing the flags of Kensington Tours, trip Arc, Ensemble, Travel Edge and the Navigator Group. We sang a bit, hugged and then we set off back along the rim, heading for Kosovo Camp before dark.
When we camp back to Stella Point, MJ felt some momentarily dizziness and had to sit down. We ate some food, the oxygen flask was brought out. Two porters grabbed my arm and “forced” on an armband saying:
“African Lions Football Club!”
The porters had spent a lot of debating which football club is the best in Tanzania. It was either the Simba SC, which was for the people, and Young Africans, which was the government club. As soon as I saw the porters I used to shout:
“Simbaaaa!”
The Young Africans fans got back at me here, at Stella Point!
Two porters sat off with MJ, full speed, and we didn´t see them again until camp. Oxygen obviously did the job for MJ, but he said later, it took half an hour until he felt a difference. Which is strange, so something must have gone wrong initially. It took us two easy hours to descend on the normal route with switchbacks. It was well trodden and going down I noticed how defined all the different trekking routes showed themselves in this amazing landscape.
Once down in the beautiful Kosovo Camp, food waited and I set down in my tent to take off my gaiters and boots, when one of the porters stuck his head in and took off my gaiters! I have never experienced anything like that! It was great and embarrassing in one!
The following morning offered superb views over Kilimanjaro, Mawenzi and even Mount Meru. We all came up early, sat in those lovely chairs and drank coffee. It was a high light of the trip. We had all made it up, but most of all, had a great journey which forever had created strong bonds between us all. It had certainly been one of the most fantastic journeys I had ever done. Most due to the company of the whole team. I hope to keep in contact with Moses and Suma-Ji the rest of my life too. But Kosovo was also the place where we got some mobile signal. The boys were also here for Kensington Tours half year review, which this time would be in Maasai Mara, and the three had important presentations coming up.
This was really the end of the trip. It took two more half days to make it to Mweka Gate, where we said goodbye to the great A-team and we immediately went to the airport and flew to Nairobi.
A personal account of the trip here, https://youtu.be/594sM-bxrXA?si=lA3HHD8m5iirTz_u
Read the previous climb https://www.mikaelstrandberg.com/…/climbing…/
Great thanks to Jeff Willner and Kensington Tours for doing this Kensington Alpine Club!





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